.jpg "A Convoy of Jeeps entering the Furnace Creek Campground at the Kiosk - Click for larger image (https://jamesmcgillis.com)")
Dry Camping in Death Valley - December 2023
At 9 AM on December 6, 2023, I trundled down to the Furnace Creek Campground entrance kiosk and asked if anyone with a full hookup RV site had vacated their spot. As of that time, I had no luck there. After a cold night without heat in my coach, there was no way I was going to spend second night living like a cave dweller in a dry camping site. In December there are too few hours of sunlight to fully charge my house batteries. With laggardly solar battery power it seemed that my only option was to "pick up stakes" and head back one day early for Panamint Springs.
If given the option to have power or sewer, I will select electrical power every time. I can always cut back on sewer usage, but the lack of electrical power at the Furnace Creek dry campsites was for me is a bridge too far. Yes, there are RVs that have 1,000 watts or more of solar panels and 200+ amp-hours of lithium-ion batteries onboard, but mine is not yet one of them. As of that mid morning moment, my rig had about ten amp-hours of battery power remaining. That was not nearly enough to see me through another cold desert night.
Rather than booking out for Panamint Springs, I decided to take a drive and see the sights. Before leaving the campground, I swung my truck back around and asked the ranger at the kiosk if anyone had vacated a full hookup since 9 AM. Yes, indeed, someone had abandoned their prime RV site and left it vacant for me. After paying for my new site, I headed off to Zabriskie Point to climb 
the hill and see the sights in Death Valley. Best seen at sunset, Zabriskie Point is spectacular at any time of day. The slowly melting mud stone hills look like something out of a Salvador Dali painting. They are colorful and surrealistic to say the least.
While returning from Zabriskie Point to Furnace Creek, I hung a left on Badwater Road. It is seventeen miles to Badwater, itself. At 282 feet below mean sea level, that place is touted as the lowest elevation location in North America. Normally, it is a white salt flat that stretches across the breadth of lower Death Valley. Once in 2005 and now again since August 2023, it has returned to its ancient glory as Lake Manly. With no discernible wind, the shallow lake water reflects anything on its horizon. Having visited Badwater once before, I had no desire to cover my shoes and truck cab with untold amounts of sticky salt material. Instead, I drove another quarter mile along the highway, which 
stretches toward Shoshone and intersects with Interstate I-15 at Baker, California. When I stopped along the highway at the lower foot of shallow Lake Manly, the view north across the full length of the lake was sublime.
The return trip to Furnace Creek has an altitude gain of exactly 282 feet, meaning that at the junction with Highway 190, you are once again at mean sea level. On that return trip, one can make several side trips. The first opportunity is at Devil's Golf Course, which is not to be confused with the Devil's Cornfield, at the opposite end of Death Valley. Early travelers throughout the Western United States were obsessed with naming any large, solitary rock formation "Church Rock" and almost anything hot and dry "Devils Whatever."
Other than the Devil's Golf Course there are two notable side trips available on the Badwater Road. The first is a cutoff to the right called Natural Bridge Road, as the name implies, the road leads to a hiking trail that in turn leads to Natural Bridge. Some might call it a stone arch, but they would be wrong, Any stone arch that spans even a dry watercourse is called a natural bridge. Good luck climbing up and crossing Natural Bridge. It spans a canyon from wall to wall and is both thirty-five feet thick and thirty-five feet from the canyon floor to the underside of the arch. Although the round trip hike is only one mile, there is no water available and very little shade during the middle of the day. The National Park Service recommends not making the hike after 10 AM during the hot season.
The second side trip is Artist's Drive, which is a loop road through a series of hills and gullies that may spring to life with color, but only on the right day at 
the right time. Otherwise the hills have a dull green or dull red hue to them. Good luck to you if you arrive on a day when the Artist's Palette comes to life. The road itself is one way only, so once you start, you are committed to looping up, over, around, and through a sinuous ribbon of asphalt to the very end, which is once again at Badwater Road. If you have never taken Artist's Drive, I recommend taking it, just so you can check it off your bucket list. If you take the trip again on your next visit to Death Valley, count yourself as an optimist. I say that because the odds are about one thousand to one that you will see the same dull green and red hills you saw on your last visit.
After returning to my campsite, I closed the slide-outs on my RV, hooked it up to my truck and traveled two hundred yards to my “new” full hookup site. No longer feeling like a 49er lost in time, I prepared for one more night at Furnace 
Creek Campground in Death Valley. Only this time, I had electric lights and two space heaters to warm my bones. Unlike the lost emigrants of 1849 Death Valley, there was to be no brush lean-to or cave dwelling for me. It was almost 174 years to the day that the original lost families made their way out of Death Valley to civilization, better known as Los Angeles.
The following day, I would travel back over Towne Pass to Panamint Springs Resort, where I would spend two more nights. After that, I would take my own quick trip back to civilization, better known as Los Angeles.
This is Part Three of a Seven Part article. To read Part Four, Click HERE. To return to Part One, click HERE.
By
James McGillis
at 01:00 PM |
Mojave Desert | Link
.jpg "Two motorcyclists head into the Panamint Valley on Highway 190 - Click for larger image (https://jamesmcgillis.com)")
From Panamint Springs To Furnace Creek - December 2023
Around noon on December 5, 2023, I departed Panamint Springs, heading again on Highway 190 toward Stovepipe Wells and Furnace Creek. Along that highway, Towne Pass is a test for any towing rig. Although the elevation change is only about 1,500 feet, it all happens in just a few short miles. For the unaware, ambient desert temperatures can make for engine overheating and breakdowns. Each time I try it, I wonder if the trip up the pass is more difficult and daunting than the trip down the other side and into Stovepipe Wells in Death Valley proper.
Once down on the flats of Death Valley, the somewhat desolate settlement of Stovepipe Wells takes only about two minutes to travel through. With its dry alkali surroundings, I often wonder what the attraction is for so many campers, lodge dwellers and other visitors. Although there is a general store and a gas station, they do not provide diesel fuel at that location. Surprisingly, there is an air field at Stovepipe Wells, although there is no fuel or any other aviation services available there. Although the Stovepipe Wells and Furnace Creek air fields can be used by rescue and reconnaissance helicopters, there are limiting factors. In the extreme heat of summer, the "density altitude" may be too high for takeoff or landing. In essence, the warm air rising negates any lift induced by the helicopter blades to. From the air field, it is a half mile walk through Death Valley heat to reach the general store and the Lodge. For me that day, there was no reason to stop in Stovepipe Wells.
Farther along, the Mesquite Flats Sand Dunes appear to the left of the highway. Once again, during the hot weather months it is a formidable hike from the parking lot to the actual dunes. Next up is Devils Cornfield, visible briefly on each side of the highway. Although there are no cornstalks there, hardy evergreen Arrowweed plant gives the area its distinctive appearance. Passing through on the highway, frequent dust devils makes it a windy and somewhat treacherous place to stop.
Next on our rolling map is the junction of Highway 190 and North Highway, also known as Scotty's Castle Road. During my visit, Scotty’s Castle Road, Daylight Pass to Beatty and all points off Highway 190 remained closed to travel. Signage indicated that the ban applied all vehicles, including motorcycles, bicycles and unicycles. Even hiking was prohibited. If you ignored those rules and became stranded or broke down, there was no one out there in 
the vastness of Death Valley to find or save you.
In dozens of places between Panamint Springs and Furnace Creek, I spotted fresh road repairs. I rumbled over one or two washout repairs and many patches along the edge of the highway. The casual observer would think that these were normal repairs, but their simplicity denies the profound damage to every form of infrastructure within Death Valley National Park. The torrential remnants of Hurricane Hilary in the summer of 2023 came on the heals of huge thunder storms during the summer of 2022. Some remote desert tracks may take years to repair, if ever.
In the history of the area, many storms have permanently cut off mining and even camping opportunities in the far out-lands. It almost seemed as if the park wanted to go back in time to the 
age before vehicular travel, internet connectivity and cell phones. Upon my arrival in Furnace Creek, there was no cellular signal at all. Only the Visitors Center had Wi-Fi, which took some practice to use effectively. Two evenings in a row I sat in a deserted courtyard behind the Visitors Center, hoping that Wi-Fi calling on my Samsung Galaxy phone would work. Luckily, the National Park Service had invested in satellite connectivity, and I was able to transport my voice to Simi Valley during my telephone calls home.
While I sat on the patio, I could see inside the Command Center that was set up to coordinate emergency response and infrastructure repair throughout Death Valley National Park. The center was staffed twenty-four hours per day, 
coordinating everything from road repairs to fire, police and all other forms of recovery. Inside workers sat at computer monitors and used white boards to chart various activities. When some people complain that our federal government is incapable of doing anything positive for our country, they should come out to Death Valley. There they could peer through the windows into an emergency center recreating the infrastructure of a vast and unforgiving national park. They might just change their minds and appreciate what these people are doing for us all. After my initial wifi call home, I headed back to my dry campsite.
When camping off-grid, my fifth wheel has 200-watts of solar panels on the roof and two six-volt deep-cycle batteries to power its vital systems. As soon 
as I pulled into my dry campsite at Furnace Creek Campground, the sun dipped behind some cottonwood trees, thus cutting my access to free electrical energy. Even running the engine on my truck while setting up camp did little to decrease the electrical drain on my house batteries. By the time I was indoors and preparing for 50-degree outside temperatures overnight, my battery monitor indicated about 12.5 volts remaining. Anything less than 11.8 volts would send my hard-wired carbon monoxide alert monitor into an endless alarm mode. The only cure for that eventuality would be to hook up my truck, run its engine and use its alternator to recharge the batteries enough to shut off the alarm.
Anticipating such situations can produce anxiety. As a result, I disconnected, unplugged, or did not use anything that I perceived could further drain my 
limited electrical reserves. In other words, I sat in the dark with no heat. After an hour or two, I felt like one of the original 1849 emigrants, who were stranded for a year in Death Valley. My only salvation was battery operated lights, of which I had a few. The scene made me think about Abraham Lincoln ruining his eyes reading books by the fireplace. Until you experience the lack of adequate electrical power, you do not remember what it was like to live in a time before nightlights and Ring doorbells.
Before bedtime, I dressed up from head to toe. I wore socks, sweatpants, long-sleeved layers and piled on as many blankets as I had. All of that extra weight kept me cemented in place for most of the night. With only one cold bathroom break, I was mostly warm, even if weighed down by so many covers. At exactly 7:52 AM, I awoke to an incessant alarm noise. I sprang out of bed, believing that I knew exactly what it was. My house battery power had dipped too low, and the carbon monoxide alarm in my rig was displaying its power as the 
batteries faded below 11.8 volts. In my panic, exactly where the noise was coming from, I could not tell.
Slowly, I realized that the incessant sound emanated from outside my coach. In the 50-degree morning air, I thrust open the door and used the parallax sensors attached to either side of my head. My ears told me that the alarm sound was coming from some sort of vehicle parked across a dirt field, behind some scrubby trees. After realizing that the sounds were beyond my control, I went back to bed, shaken but not stirred. Later, I discovered that it was an unattended SUV that had spontaneously gone into panic mode to awaken me.
This is Part Two of a Seven Part article. To read Part Three, Click HERE. To return to Part One, click HERE.
By
James McGillis
at 03:54 PM |
Mojave Desert | Link
The Long Trip To Panamint Springs - December 2023
On December 4, 2023, I began my annual RV trip, from Casa Carrie in Simi Valley, California to Panamint Springs, California. My destination was Panamint Springs Resort, a private one hundred acre enclave entirely within the borders of Death Valley National Park. Throughout the Mojave Desert, the floods of July 2022 and August 2023 had left roads, sewers, and cell phone coverage in ruins. Roads became undercut and eroded away. Sewers and campground septic systems became clogged with debris. Mobile phone and data connectivity disappeared throughout the national park, including the Furnace Creek and Stovepipe Wells settlements.
Under what we once called normal conditions, I would have traveled through Garlock and then the Trona Road to Panamint Springs. That route offers great views of the Searles Valley and the Panamint Valley farther along the way. Although there are several elevation changes and one steep mountain pass transitioning to what becomes the Panamint Valley Road, that route would allow me to avoid the endless switchbacks on Highway 190. To my disappointment, word on the internet indicated that the Panamint Valley Road had washed out during the storms in August of 2023. That is the nature of almost any news regarding Death Valley. Do not believe everything that you read or hear. It may be wrong or outdated to say the least.
With the Olancha cutoff remaining closed to through traffic my only option was to remain on U.S. Highway 395 North, almost to Lone Pine. The Olancha cutoff, which is the actual western terminus of Highway 190, had received severe 
damage and remained washed out in multiple locations. With both the TronaRoad and the Olancha cutoff closed by flooding, I had to proceed to Lone Pine before turning east to my expected camp at Panamint Springs Resort. When I passed the Olancha Cutoff, I thought I saw signs indicating that it was open.
After taking and laborious u-turn in my fifth wheel rig, I entered the Olancha Cutoff. Immediately, I found barricades and "Closed" signs in the road. That issue prompted another sketchy u-turn and a return to Highway 395. From there, I proceeded directly north to Lone Pine. All of this backtracking caused me to travel past my intended junction and seek diesel fuel in Lone Pine. With the early December Sun about to set behind the high peaks of the Sierra Nevada, I was getting closer to losing my daylight. With closed roads, both perceived and real, it took 
nearly an hour to end my dithering and get back on the right road. The turn-off from Highway 395, south of Lone Pine is on to Highway 136, through Keeler and on to Highway 190, which leads to Panamint Springs.
According to National Park sources, Highway 190 had opened to traffic on October 15, 2023. That was almost two months after the remnants of Hurricane Hilary devastated Death Valley and much of the surrounding area. The initial hour-long highway construction delays were now down to thirty-minutes, or so they said. After passing Father Crowley Point, I came upon a lonely flagger, standing by the road with a pole-mounted stop sign. He reminded me of a shepherd, leaning on his crook as his flock fed nearby. As he paced and shuffled in the cold of a late afternoon breeze, I sat in the heated comfort of my truck. It was not freezing outside, but standing there day after day, with a 
stop sign in his gloved hands had to be wearing on his psyche and his soul.
After about five minutes, I shut off the engine in my truck. After ten minutes, my smart watch told me to get off my duff and take a walk. After exiting the cab, I realized that the flagger, dressed in full weather gear was cold and bored. Gamely, I called out to him in greeting. He told me, “Seven Minutes” to the next go-around of the pilot car. For five minutes, we talked from a shouting-distance. During our exchange, the silence of the landscape easily carried our voices over the distance between us. I learned about washouts and the 200-foot cliff that crews were filling with rocks, from the bottom-up, to restore both lanes of travel. Soon, the pilot car arrived from downhill, escorting a vehicle or two. The driver made a u-turn and whisked me on my way. Soon, we approached the main construction zone.
Even near 5 PM, the construction crews were hard at work, pouring rip-rap down the washed out embankment. It was the Myth of Physalis in reverse. Instead of endlessly rolling a boulder up hill, only to have it crash back down to the bottom, the construction crews were rolling untold numbers of boulders down into a canyon, hoping to rebuild it from the bottom up. Personally, I would have suggested a deeper cut into the uphill edge of the road, not pouring boulders into the abyss below. Nothing lasts forever in the desert and that ongoing repair to Highway 190 represented that potential to me.
After traversing the active construction zone, the pilot car pulled over and waved me on. Before dark, I rolled into the venerable Panamint Springs Resort. Most resorts have swimming pools. Comprised of 100 acres, this resort features tent, motel, cabin and RV accommodations. In addition, it has a dirt 
airstrip, a general store, fuel station and a full service restaurant and bar. All of this makes up for the lack of a swimming pool. The antecedent to this resort had started off as a rustic motel the 1920s. At that time, it featured the only lodging between Lone Pine and Stovepipe Wells.
A century later, it still holds that honor. There is no cell phone coverage, but they do advertise “full hookups” for RVs. Not so much today. The floods of August had clogged the septic and sewer system, creating a “no dump” order for the RV sites. The many RVs that had arrived for the Thanksgiving holiday faced a major disappointment in their accommodations. Luckily, my black and gray tanks were empty, providing plenty of effluent storage for my single night there. According to the National Park Service, there was an operational sewer dump at Furnace Creek Campground, which was my next destination down the road. More on that in my next installment.
Once ensconced in Site Number Four, I took note that I was the only RV camper in the entire resort. No tent spaces were occupied either. Only one “luxury cabin” had visitors spending the night. No noisy partygoers or off-road vehicle crazies were anywhere within one hundred miles of my quiet site. Years ago, I had asked the clerk at the general store, “What is the best time to visit Panamint Springs and avoid the crowds?” “Between Thanksgiving and Christmas,” he said. “No one is here.” And so, I visit Panamint Springs Resort every year at this time. Never have I been disappointed by the solitude and sanctity of the place. At this time of year, it becomes my spiritual home.
Every domicile built since the time of the ancient Romans deserves a sewer. A good sewer system takes that which we do not like farther downstream than our nostrils can discern. Not so at Panamint Springs. The once reliable sewer and drain field were clogged with August flood sediment and errant Russian .jpg "My fifth wheel on a sunny day in May at Panamint Springs Resort - Click for larger image (https://jamesmcgillis.com)")
Olive tree roots. There are only one or two maintenance people at the resort. Since I was planning to return to Panamint Springs after a couple of nights in Furnace Creek. I hoped that they were capable of fixing this problem. Using a backhoe, the two men had dug an enormous hole at the lower end of the RV sites. Later, I discovered that good luck and skill carried them through. By the time I returned three days later, they had found the problem and created a permanent repair to the sewer pipes.
After one night of "water and power only" camping, my next destination featured dry camping at Furnace Creek Campground in the heart of Death Valley.
This is Part One of a Seven Part article. To read Part Two, Click HERE.
By
James McGillis
at 06:24 PM |
Mojave Desert | Link
Experience a Blizzard In Death Valley National Park 2023
In California, the Winter of 2023 produced record rain and snowfall, especially in the Central and Southern Sierra Nevada. As that moisture traveled east, even the Panamint Range, in Death Valley National Park received record snowfall. As spring approached, the sky-rivers kept flowing, sometimes warm and sometimes cold.
On February 28, I watched a snowflake or two fall outside my window in Panamint Springs. Toward sundown, the clouds descended to a low level, obscuring any remaining sunlight. That eerie and early darkness kept me inside all night. What will tomorrow bring?
In the morning, the distance-obscuring clouds hung low on the Panamint Range. Around noon, the clouds had lifted enough for me to strike out in search of that elusive cell phone signal. As I descended into Panamint Valley, I encountered a shallow lake, with Highway 190 running like a dry ribbon down the middle of it. Rising through a long series of switchbacks on the far slopes, I could see snow clouds ahead.
Soon, sloppy wet snow obscured my windshield. The normal flow of traffic to and from Death Valley kept the snow from accumulating on the roadway. As I ascended Towne Pass, the snow fields to either side grew thicker, and the temperature dropped. Over the top and slightly downhill on the Death Valley side, I came upon the venerable old stone Emigrant Junction Station. Built in the 1920’s, just beyond the junction of Emigrant Pass and the newer Towne Pass, it has stood the test of time. Abandoned now and silhouetted by snowy peaks behind, the haunting building added to a forlorn tableau.
Almost adjacent to the building was the Junction of Highway 190 and the old Emigrant Pass. There, an open gate beckoned me to take the old road to Wildrose and Skidoo. Both places were old mines, which had played out well before the National Park era. I had driven Emigrant Pass once before, in late spring. At that time, I had traveled up the canyon from the Panamint Valley. On this day, I faced a treacherous and snowy road first created using mule teams in the 1920’s. As snow fell all around, I felt a sense of mystery and drama. Without fanfare, I slushed past the open gate.
After seeing only one SUV, traveling in the opposite direction, I realized that I might be alone for the rest of this journey. Was I foolhardy, foolish, or just allowing my sense of adventure to lead me on? Whatever the reason, or lack thereof, I was on my way to Wildrose and beyond. As I progressed, snow covered more of the road and plastered itself on my windshield.
Undeterred, I soldiered on. Why turn back when you can still proceed forward, I thought. Being a child of the 1960’s, I had brought a four-CD pack, which included Moody Blues entire songbook. Their upbeat songs, like “Sitting at the Wheel” were a perfect accompaniment to my snow blown trip into the snowy unknown. A series of crowning curves on an old mountain road lay ahead of me. Although I had four-wheel drive, I began to think that the tread on my rear tires might be too thin to clear the snow from the grooves.
Experience a Blizzard in Death Valley National Park
As I traveled deeper into the wilderness, I remembered that I did not bring any survival food or shelter greater than a light jacket and a space blanket. Inexplicably, I had left my Zoleo satellite text communicator back in camp. Now I put my faith in driving twenty miles in a blizzard. If I could get over the endless ridge-top curves, I knew that the highway would drop into the warmer canyons, below the snowline. What I did not fully anticipate or appreciate was both the beauty and the stress of making that perilous journey.
Without further drama, I will report that I did make it through a harrowing and sobering experience. Despite a fallen tree, which almost blocked the entire roadway, I was able to skirt that problem, and descend below the snow line for the remainder of my trip. Looking back from the alluvial fan of Wildrose Canyon, I could see the storm still clinging to the slopes of the Panamint Range. To my relief, the safety of the Trona Road lay only a mile or two farther down that gravel road.
Looking back, would I take that drive again? Well, how many people do you know that almost got snowed-in on March 1 in Death Valley National Park? Of course, I would do it again. Next time I will bring more emergency supplies, better tires and my Zoleo communicator, just in case I get stuck.
Thinking back now, I am amazed that a secondary road, which no agency might plow until at least the next day, remained wide open to the public. It was my choice to go into harm’s way, but luck was with me, at least in spirit. That entire day, I did not find that elusive cell phone signal. With one driving decision piled upon another, I had made my way into harm’s way and back again to civilization.
As I headed back to camp, I caught sight of the elusive Phoenix Bird flying low over the Panamint Range, toward Death Valley.
By
James McGillis
at 04:34 PM |
Mojave Desert | Link
<< Later Stories ||
Earlier Stories >>
If given the option to have power or sewer, I will select electrical power every time. I can always cut back on sewer usage, but the lack of electrical power at the Furnace Creek dry campsites was for me is a bridge too far. Yes, there are RVs that have 1,000 watts or more of solar panels and 200+ amp-hours of lithium-ion batteries onboard, but mine is not yet one of them. As of that mid morning moment, my rig had about ten amp-hours of battery power remaining. That was not nearly enough to see me through another cold desert night.
the hill and see the sights in Death Valley. Best seen at sunset, Zabriskie Point is spectacular at any time of day. The slowly melting mud stone hills look like something out of a Salvador Dali painting. They are colorful and surrealistic to say the least.
stretches toward Shoshone and intersects with Interstate I-15 at Baker, California. When I stopped along the highway at the lower foot of shallow Lake Manly, the view north across the full length of the lake was sublime.
Other than the Devil's Golf Course there are two notable side trips available on the Badwater Road. The first is a cutoff to the right called Natural Bridge Road, as the name implies, the road leads to a hiking trail that in turn leads to Natural Bridge. Some might call it a stone arch, but they would be wrong, Any stone arch that spans even a dry watercourse is called a natural bridge. Good luck climbing up and crossing Natural Bridge. It spans a canyon from wall to wall and is both thirty-five feet thick and thirty-five feet from the canyon floor to the underside of the arch. Although the round trip hike is only one mile, there is no water available and very little shade during the middle of the day. The National Park Service recommends not making the hike after 10 AM during the hot season.
the right time. Otherwise the hills have a dull green or dull red hue to them. Good luck to you if you arrive on a day when the Artist's Palette comes to life. The road itself is one way only, so once you start, you are committed to looping up, over, around, and through a sinuous ribbon of asphalt to the very end, which is once again at Badwater Road. If you have never taken Artist's Drive, I recommend taking it, just so you can check it off your bucket list. If you take the trip again on your next visit to Death Valley, count yourself as an optimist. I say that because the odds are about one thousand to one that you will see the same dull green and red hills you saw on your last visit.
Creek Campground in Death Valley. Only this time, I had electric lights and two space heaters to warm my bones. Unlike the lost emigrants of 1849 Death Valley, there was to be no brush lean-to or cave dwelling for me. It was almost 174 years to the day that the original lost families made their way out of Death Valley to civilization, better known as Los Angeles. 
